Southern California: The Dry Part

The southern CA stretch was more difficult than expected, partly due to the transition from one of the most visually stunning landscapes (the high Sierra) to one of the most drab (the desert in the fall). I was also expecting southern CA to be flatter. It's not all desert south of the Sierras, but instead climbs in and out of the desert, transitioning from desert, to chaparral, to forest as you go up.

The most difficult part was adjusting to a trail with few reliable water sources.  Clear cold water is abundant in the high Sierras, but south of Cottonwood Pass, water sources quickly increase up to 40 miles apart. Carrying 2-5 liters of water takes some getting used to, as does being dirty all the time. (There are few swimming opportunities.)  Once south of Tehachapi the trail begins to pass through more populated areas, so resupply and support becomes more frequent, offsetting much of the difficulties with the lack of water.  Showers, laundry, cold drinks and food are more accessible.  Unfortunately there were several trail closures due to fires and an endangered frog, so some road walking and/or hitching was necessary.

The Spectacular Sierras

Hikers I met heading north kept telling me the mountain scenery was going to get even better as I got further south into the Sierras. I found it hard to be true, but it turned out to be so.  I'm now south of Mt Whitney and out of the national parks (Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia), so I'm fairly sure I've hit peak Sierra splendor. I still have about 90 miles to Walker Pass and into the Mojave, but a kind local offered me a rest.

There has been lots of hiking company on this section.  Many people hiking the 200+ mile John Muir Trail and many other section hikers. That has been a nice change, and hiker boxes have been well stocked. Weather is near perfect except for a couple cold snaps that included snow and an hour of steady rain. Nights have been chilly with a couple drops into the teens.

I have so many pictures of mountain passes and lakes I'm not sure which are which.  Below are my favorite pics from this section. Lots of panorama shots as the views are have been expansive.

Hiking into the sunset out of Donner Pass.

Ashland to Truckee, Mile 1157

A stretch with some less exciting hiking and temperature extremes.  Over 100 F in the valleys coming out of Ashland and Seiad Valley, and this morning I saw my first frost.  The colder temps got me thinking that I need to get moving.  I thought after my 9 day hiatus in Ashland I was behind the SOBO group of hikers, but in Sierra City there were dozens of hiker packages waiting to be picked up, so I guess not. There will likely be some chilly nights in the Sierras.   

There are a series of Wilderness areas in northern CA, Marble Mountain, Trinity-Alps, Shasta-Trinity that are beautiful and expansive. I suspect one could spend a lifetime exploring them.  I ran into many friendly hunters, some section hikers and a few stray NOBOs.  After Castle Crag and I-5 the hiking is less exciting and goes through a lot of logging areas.  Things get more exciting south of Belden. Here is the picture show:

Mt Shasta in the smoke from fires far to the south. 

Ashland, OR Mile 1716

Only about 30 more miles before I walk in to California.  The hike from Bend to Ashland was a a nice section passing Diamond Peak, Summit Lake, Mt Thielsen, Crater Lake, Mt. McLoughlin,  and hundreds of northbound hikers.  The mosquitoes were ferocious north of Windigo Pass, but practically disappeared after Crater Lake.  South of Crater I was passing 75-100+ northbound hikers per day, a few of which I knew from last year on the AT.

The day before hiking into Ashland was an eventful one.  I hit my first official trail magic with a cooler full of cold soda, beer, and fruit in the Brown Mt. Shelter.  Shortly before that I got stung by a bee.  Shortly after that I had my first mountain lion encounter.  A couple miles south of Dead Indian Memorial Highway, I saw something ahead in the trail, which I first thought were two dogs. As I got closer I saw one crouching down and thought maybe they were coyotes.  When I was about 20' away, an adult mountain lion was standing in the trail looking at me.  They jumped off the trail into the brush and disappeared.  I didn't see them again, but did pick up a couple rocks in case they took an interest in me.  The sighting was at about 4:30 in the afternoon on a busy stretch of trail.  I suspect most PCT hikers are within earshot of mountain lions on a regular basis and never know it.

Elk Lake, OR Mile 1950

I'm enjoying a day off the trail in Bend with friends, Paul, Steph, Theo and Nora.  Nora (2) is taking a while to warm up to me.  Theo (5) is happy to play. I'm taking a day off the trail in Bend, OR.  The weather in Oregon has done a 180.  Washington was mostly 40-60 degrees F with lots of clouds and some rain.  Oregon has been 50-90+ with nothing but sun and long stretches with little shade through burn areas, above tree line and on lava rock.  My hiker tan is improving.

There is an abundance of food on the trail.  The Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood has an all you can eat buffet, which is widely touted as one of the best meals on the trail.  I ate so much it will likely be remembered as the worst experience of my trip.  The food was very good, but it will be my last buffet for a while.  The hiker boxes are treating me well, as northbounders are leaving lots of goodies.

Next stop is to visit friends, Ryan and Jess in Ashland.

Picture show:

Tunnel Falls on the Eagle Creek Alternate Trail.  The trail actually goes under the falls, which is probably why this is one of the most popular trails in the US and most PCT hikers take the alternate route.