San Diego, CA to San Francisco, CA

There is more diversity of people and place in California than any other state I have been to.  After more than 2,200 miles of riding in CA I surely waited too long for a blog post. There were too many people to talk to, too many hills to climb, and consequently too little energy left at the end of the day. 

Riding from San Diego to Santa Barbara via LA wasn't so bad, as I was warned it would be.  There was a lot of traffic on the road, some crappy industrial areas in LA, and some big commercial farm areas south of Ventura, but mostly nice beach towns with places to sit, and plenty of other cyclists on the road.  My favorite part was riding through places I previously knew only from pop culture (from La Jolla to Leo Carillo, through Laguna, Long Beach, Venice Beach, Santa Monica, Malibu).  North of Santa Barbara everything changes.  The coast is largely undeveloped and idyllic.  Hats off to CA for keeping so much of their coast in a relatively natural state. 

In Laguna I had one of my favorite long lost friend visits with Lauren, who I know from my 2 years at the University of Denver.   She arranged for me to stay at her parent's house where there was an extra bedroom, tasty food, interesting drinks, and delightful company.  Twelve years and a couple kids later Lauren has the same wonderful sense of humor and laid back personality and it didn't feel like more than a decade had passed.  

Madlen, Lauren's younger sister, gets the prize for putting the most effort into fixing me a drink.  There is not much I can't eat or drink, but despite my best effort I could not come close to finishing her concoction, which tasted like breakfast, fiery shrimp cocktail sauce, and vodka.             

 The OC Bloody Mary.  Luckily there were other beverage options, including tasty Kombucha, which Lauren's other sister, Kirsten, makes.  

Despite an invitation and encouragement to stick around another day or two for Easter weekend I felt like I needed to get moving after my San Diego break. So I left with a promise to make another visit.  Perhaps Laguna would be a good starting point for a bike trip down the Baja peninsula :)

Kirsten, Logn, Kathy, Ted (the cutest most agreeable baby in all of CA), and Lauren

In the LA area I stayed with Warmshowers host, Jerry, in Venice Beach.  Quite a scene, with lots of colorful characters and a bike bath right on the beach. Venice, once a high crime part of LA, is now an expensive and hip place to be.  Despite the gentrification there seem to be all kinds of people sticking around, including one guy who decided to drag a queen sized mattress on to the beach and call it home.  While Venice has been changing over the last couple decades, Jerry has been living in Cambodia with his wife, doing a lot of cycling in SE Asia.  It sounds like if you can stand the heat and humidity SE Asia is a wonderful and inexpensive place to tour on bicycle.

After a quick ride on Santa Monica Blvd. (singing All I Wanna Do in my head) I rode up to the Malibu section of the coast, which gives a taste of the beautiful coastline to come.  Nothing too exciting about Malibu.  I stopped at the Starbucks for WiFi where a weird guy with a European accent and nice clothes asked me about my trip. He was also on a bicycle and apparently lived along the Malibu coast in various campgrounds.   He told me famous people come to this Starbucks all the time, but they would be laying low since it was Easter weekend. So I missed my big chance to meet the stars.

I camped at Point Mugu State Park NW of Malibu, which was packed because of Easter weekend, and was my first hiker-biker camping experience.  Most CA state parks have special hiker-biker camping areas that cost $3-7 for those arriving on foot or bike.  The price is right and they are great places to meet other cyclists.

The next day I rode through Santa Barbara, which I gather is a very affluent touristy beach town, probably best experienced by spending a lot of money.  I went so far as spending $8 on a smoothie before moving on.  On the way out of town there is a noticeable change in scenery.  Development disappears and there is nothing but big grassy fields and steep green hills.  Suddenly I understood why several cyclists told me to skip LA and start up the coast in Santa Barbara.  The coastal scenery was spectacular from this point north.  That night I camped at El Capitan State Park, right between the ocean and the highway/railroad tracks.  Not particularly quiet, but the view was nice.

From El Capitan HWY 1 turns inland around the Vandenberg Airforce Base, which made for a hilly ride to Arroyo Grande.  I spent two nights in Arroyo Grande with Marcy, who I met while hiking in Death Valley.  She is a cyclist and invited me to come by on my way up the coast.  I got a nice rest day after a tough ride and shared a wonderful meal with Marcy and her roommate, Brian.   Always talk to strangers!

My friend, Faez, from Philadelphia, planned to come to San Francisco the second week of May.  Going straight north to SF I would be there a week ahead of him, so I decided to take a side trip from the coast and ride east through the Central Valley into the south side of Sequoia National Park and out the north end, along the General's Highway.

I underestimated the difficulty of this ride.  First, I didn't realize how hilly the terrain is on the coastal side of the Valley.  I was thinking there would be a couple up and downs and then flat to the Sierras.  It was more like 80 miles of up and down before I hit the Valley.  Second, there isn't much of anything once you get away from the coast but ranch land, so I slept outside a gas station convenience store on my way east.

Cozy accommodations.  The kind folks at the gas station 10 miles west of Kettleman City let me sleep in the patch of grass next to the building.  Unfortunately those lights stayed on all night and that patch of grass is adjacent to several compressors.  I slept pretty well all things considered.  

Once I hit the valley the roads are flat as a pancake for 80 miles, through endless farms of fruit & nut trees, grapes, olives, and many dirt fields.  All and all a pretty barren big ag landscape, surely made worse by the drought, which is a hot button topic in the Central Valley, and a major concern in every CA town I visited. There were signs along the Central Valley highways claiming the water crisis is made up by politicians (namely Pelosi).  I don't know all the politics of the issue but I was surprised to see a lot of water being used inefficiently (flood irrigation and watering in the heat of the day).   I suspect farming in the Central Valley is going to undergo some major changes in the next decade, and the pains of change are just beginning.

Farm roads in the central valley

On the east side of the valley at the base of the mountains, I stayed with Hank, a Warmshowers host in Porterville.  Hank is not a cyclist, but likes having the company and meeting new people.  He happened to have a friend, Dave, staying with him while Dave was fixing up his rental property in Springville, 20 miles up the road. This turned out to be very good for me.

As I got ready to leave Porterville for Sequoia, Hank and Dave warned me heavy rain was forecast for the afternoon and evening.  Good news for farmers, not for me.  Hank had family coming in for the weekend, so Dave offered to let me stay in his place up in Springville, which had no furniture or bathroom, but would be a roof over my head.  As I listened to the thunder and pouring rain that night I was grateful to be inside, even if Springville was a bit out of the way.  The scenic and hilly ride over Yokohl Valley Rd. to get to the General's Highway/Route 198 from Springville was an added bonus.

Yokohl Valley Rd.

At the intersection of Yokohl Valley Rd. and 198 a guy in a white pickup asked me where I was from while we waited for a truck to pass.  I explained, and asked what he did.  He worked in pest management for farmers, so I asked about the drought and the farming operations in the area.  His response included some far-right political comments, so with a smirk on my face I told him I was a liberal from CT and we probably have a lot to talk about. He pulled off the road to talk.

First, Mark tells me he believes in 3 things: the constitution, the bible, and guns.  Next he starts going on about the Bundy standoff in Nevada and how evil our federal government is.  He showed me a YouTube video of the incident (google it if you haven't already seen it on FauxNews) and excitedly repeated the incident is just like Tiananmen Square.  I am not sure if he knows that the Tiananmen Square incident was an actual massacre of unarmed civilians.  All of the civilians in the Bundy video had guns and were not arrested, never mind shot at.

So I tried to focus the conversation on gun control, and he seemed to agree that there should be limits on what kind of weapons people can own, but saw no reason he shouldn't be able to own a tank.  I laughed at that and said, "What the hell do you need a tank for? That's crazy!"  His reply : "You are the one riding a bicycle around the country."  So I guess crazy is a matter of perspective.

The ride up into the national park was a steady scenic climb fueled by excitement and anticipation of seeing the big trees.  Before making the bigger climb to where the trees are I camped with Karen and Mark, from Ventura, at the Buckeye Flat campground.  They were up the mountain the night before in their camper and told me all that rain down in the valley was 15" of heavy wet snow higher up.

They fed me Thai noodle soup, naan and cheese, smores, and left me with granola for breakfast.  I needed all of that food as the next day was the biggest climbing day of my trip, nearly 8,000 vertical feet over 52 miles, through cold wet weather. Temperatures were in the upper 30s and the snow melting from the trees fell like a cold rain.  The weather made the ride all the more spectacular.

The  start of the climb from Buckeye Flat on the General's Highway.  No snow until about 5,000 feet.

First big trees

The Sentinel

Riding among the most massive trees on earth

In and out of the clouds on the General's Highway

The road to the Grant Grove

Camping at Azalea campground near the Grant Grove.  The pavement was the only area that wasn't snowy and wet.  Much less messy after the night freeze.

I considered riding into Kings Canyon, but that was going to involve a lot more climbing.  I was cold and tired, so I rode back out into the Valley where I stayed with another great Warmshowers host, Brian and Susan, in Sanger, just east of Fresno.  Brian is a retired commercial farmer and has about 8 acres of pomegranates and beautiful gardens.  I learned a bit about the pomegranate business.  Unfortunately pomegranates are likely not as good for us as the pomegranate giant Pom Wonderful has led us to believe.

Brian and Susan fed me a delicious meal of fish tacos, homemade apricot pie, and homemade pomegranate juice.  They even sent me off with a homemade energy bar and frozen bottle of juice for the road.  That juice was much appreciated as a heat wave was coming and temperatures were forecast to be in the 90s.

Indeed, by time I got across the valley to I-5 where the hills start the air felt like I was back in the desert.  I made it another 20 miles or so to Jack's Ranch Cafe, which is in the middle of nowhere except for being adjacent to a small memorial marking the location where James Dean died.  I had some greasy food for dinner and camped out in their patch of grass.  I was planning to sleep under the stars but after warnings of rattlesnakes I found enough energy to set up my tent.

The hills on Route 41 between the coast and I-5. 

The next day was even hotter, so I was eager to get back to the cool ocean breeze.   As I rode into Paso Robles I hit a nail that destroyed the new $50 Schwalbe tire I put on in San Diego.  Fortunately there was a bike shop within a few miles.  I tried patching the hole with some Gorilla tape but it wouldn't hold, so I had to walk it.  I spent a couple hours of fiddling with my bike and walking in the hot sun, but certainly this could have happened in a worse place.  After putting the new tire on in the air conditioned bike shop I did a couple more hours of riding  in the heat before the air got noticeably cooler and the ocean appeared.

That made an awful scary noise

All smiles heading down to the coast on Route 46.  

The next stretch of coastal riding, from Cambria to Monterey, through the Big Sur region, is the scenic highlight of the coast.  The road winds up and down along the very steep shoreline and there are numerous state parks to camp, lots of good company, and endless photo opportunities.

Just north of Cambria I camped at San Simeon State Park.  That night I slept out under the stars and woke up around 2AM with a skunk a few feet from my face.  I made some noise that scared the skunk away, but woke up in the morning to find a trail of avocado and whole wheat lavash coming from my food bag.  Somehow I missed that there was a food storage bin, but luckily the skunk managed to get my food without chewing any holes in my bag.  I also met James and Alexis from San Francisco at San Simeon.  James has done a lot of cycling in Alaska and we later met in SF to discuss riding in the north country. I got some inspiration and good tips (be ready for mosquitoes and rain) .

The  Big Sur Coast.  It looks that beautiful the whole way.

Next stop was Kirk Creek, a beautiful campground about halfway up the Big Sur coastal area.  To my surprise there was no water at the camp. Fortunately there were a number of RV campers that were happy to help.  Carolyn and Sandy, from Charleston, SC, not only offered me water, but also invited me to join them for dinner: steak, veggies, and wine, along with a decent sunset.  Carolyn and Sandy send me email updates on their travels and give recommendations.  They have since arrived in Missoula to visit their daughter and grandchildren, and tell me I have a place to stay when I get there.  Always talk to strangers.

Kirk Creek Sunset at dinner with Carolyn and Sandy

The next day of riding was short, but hilly and scenic.  A good place to take your time.  After a stop and short walk at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park to see an the idyllic beach and waterfall, I rode up to the Big Sur section of Big Sur.   In San Simeon, James told me to get a burrito while in Big Sur, but provided no other details. I stopped in the first market/deli I saw when I was getting close to the Big Sur river. They had burritos on the menu.  It was the biggest most delicious burrito I've ever had.  So if you are in Big Sur, have a burrito.  

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.  There were a couple people down on that beach, but I was told there is no legal way of getting there. 

Big Sur is a very confusing name, as it can refer to the larger central coast region of CA, but also the area immediately around the Big Sur river.  To further confuse things there are two state parks with Pfeiffer in the name not far from each other.  That night I camped at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park on the Big Sur River. With the heat wave it was hot enough for a swim, which is a bit of a hike and rock scramble to get to the nice swimming hole, but very much worth the effort.

Pfeiffer Big Sur has a nice hiker-biker campsite nestled among redwoods and the river.   Upon arrival I met Mark, from Woodland, CA.   He had a large bottle of beer that he shared with me as we unloaded our bikes.   I liked him immediately.  Shortly after a non hiker biker camper, Jenna, walked by and fell into our conversation.   Jenna later came by with a couple of six packs, so we had a great evening of beer and conversation.

The ride up from Big Sur to Monterey was the first day riding with a very strong headwind.  Most cyclists ride north to south as the prevailing winds come from the NW.  Apparently I got lucky up until this point.  Strange weather I was told.  I caught up with Mark about 5 miles north and we rode together nearly the entire way to Monterey, taking turns blocking the wind.

I joined Mark at the hiker biker campground in Monterey's Veterans Memorial Park for dinner.  I liked Mark's style.  He is a healthy vegan eater, has a very easy going genuine personality, and I admired his touring setup: a lightweight carbon fiber road bike, a homemade frame pack, and a couple small panniers, weighing in about 40lbs in all. Mark was headed back home and invited me to come by on my way north.  I didn't make it to Woodland, but I hope our paths cross again.  

Lucky for me my cousin, Sara, lives in Monterey and I had nice visit with her and friends.  Monterey is a unique place.  Most of the oceanside towns I have visited are about recreating, namely playing on the beach and surfing.  Monterey has that too, but also a big emphasis on conservation, sustainable fishing, and apprecation of nature.   Ocean wildlife abounds, with otters, whales, and seals relatively easy to find from the shore, which is never far.  The highlight of the visit was a hike at Point Lobos Reserve and where we saw many baby seals, sea otters, and all kinds of birds along the dramatic and sometimes dangerous rocky coast.  Apparently people sometimes get too close to the waves crashing on the rocks and get swept out into the ocean.

Me and Sara at Point Lobos

From Monterey I rode up to Santa Cruz, via Moss Landing and Watsonville, both farming towns.  I was told to stop at the produce stand and the Choke Cart, where I got more fruit than I could carry for $10 and greasy fried artichoke.  Santa Cruz is a much different town than Monterey, with a much younger crowd of surfers, students, hippies, and a good number of people living on the streets.  There are lots of bicycles, and bicycle theft, I was told.  I was planning to stay with a Warmshowers host, but Sara arranged for me to stay with her friend, Mary, who lives in all female house.  Over dinner they informed me there are an abundance of single women in Santa Cruz, as it can be hard to find a normal guy in town.  Apparently most have dreadlocks, a name like Echo, and/or are unable/willing to ask a woman out on a date.  So Santa Cruz could be a good place to live.

Dinner in Santa Cruz

And from Santa Cruz up to San Francisco.  A beautiful coastal ride dotted with state parks, farms, and occasional small towns.  Closer to San Francisco, just south of Pacifica, there is the Tom Lantos Tunnel, where the riding gets a bit intense.  I hate riding through tunnels.  This one had a big shoulder, but the deafening noise is frightening and disorienting.  Once through the tunnel the landscape is increasingly urban to SF.  Skyline Dr. is a heck of a climb through a suburban neighborhood then a nice decent into the city.

Faez was in SF when I arrived as planned, and we stayed with his long time friend, Jay, who I met once before when he lived in DC.  Jay has been living in the heart of SF a couple years now and showed us a great time, which involved a good amount walking around the city, eating and drinking, a live comedy show in Berkeley (Demetri Martin), and a day of hiking on the coastal trails north of the Golden Gate Bridge.  From the Tennessee Valley trailhead we  hiked a few scenic miles to the Pelican Inn at Muir Beach where we had lunch before hiking back.  On the drive back into the city we stopped in Sausalito and had a bottle of wine on Richardson Bay.  I also managed to catch up with long lost high school friends, Brett and Megan, for some excellent groovin live music at the Boom Boom Room, Jenna from Big Sur for some bluegrass music in Golden Gate Park, and James for beers and Alaska bike touring talk.  All and all a great visit to SF.

Jay, me and Faez on the trail

Faez, Jay, and me at the Pelican Inn in Muir Beach

I rode out of the city on a Monday, with a lingering hangover.  As Jay suggested the route over the Golden Gate through Sausalito to the Shoreline HWY, route 1, had much less traffic on a Monday than a weekend.  But still riding over the Golden Gate isn't particularly easy or quick, as the dual bike path sidewalk is packed with people paying little attention to anything but the view.   You can't really blame them, so you take it slow and enjoy the view.

Riding over the Golden Gate. Beep Beep

The view from Golden Gate. Alcatraz and SF to the right.