Moran, WY to Minneapolis, MN

I didn't have high expectations for good riding once out of the Tetons.  My impression of WY away from the Tetons was based on driving across the southern part of the state on I-80, which is a barren and boring landscape.  So I am still surprised that central and northern WY turned out to be awesome riding, and made WY one of my favorite states.  Nearly every road I was on had huge shoulders and low traffic (WY is the least populated US state).  People were extraordinarily friendly and I discovered previously unknown mountain ranges in my final two big mountain crossings.  

From Moran I rode southeast on route 26 toward Dubois for my actual final crossing of the Continental Divide, via Togwotee Pass (the W is silent) through the Absaroka Mts. They are part of the Rockies. I had never heard of them, but I think they were higher than any other mountain crossing I have done. I did a few thousand feet of climbing over 20 miles.  The climb seemed to drag on as it would flatten out and then go up again.  

Looking back at the Tetons in the clouds on the way up Togwotee Pass.  

At one of the flat areas I saw something hovering over a field that I first thought was a Kestrel hunting.  As I got closer I saw it was a drone.  Apparently the National Park Service recently banned the use of drones in parks.  So these two guys were bummed, but found the drone flying to be good in the National Forest.  They were filming me as I approached.  In return they gave me a bunch of energy bars, GU, and a bag of nuts.  Turns out GU makes excellent substitute for jelly on a PB&Jelly sandwiches.

My 6th, final and I think highest crossing of the divide.  Within a minute of arriving at the top the very cold rain caught up with me, so the descent was one of those done with the brim of my hat low over my face to minimize rain pelting my cold face.

After a long descent into the rainshadow of the mountains the landscape completely changed.  The rain disappeared, the temperature increased, and I felt like I was back in west Texas.  The wind picked up, a nice tailwind, so after as stop in Dubois for food I kept on riding.  I made it just under 120 miles before coming to Pilot Butte Reservoir, which was the place the cowboy working at the Crowheart gas station suggested for camping.   

The eastern foothills of the Absorka Mts.

The awesome rocks along the Wind River

Very dark skies.  Thunderstorms were all around and somehow I didn't get wet.

Off route 26 I found the Pilot Butte Reservoir recreation area, which had a covered picnic table, vault toilet, and place to swim.  Awesome.  When I arrived there was a woman standing in the parking lot in the whipping wind.  Her husband was out swimming in the lake, training for a triathlon.  Given I was in the middle of nowhere, I was surprised to see them.  They said they didn't think anyone would bother me if I spent the night.  They were right.

I pitched my tent under the overpass to try to get some shelter from the wind and the rain that never came.  Not much traffic during the night, but the wind picked up and ripped my tent stakes out of the sandy soil causing a middle of the night tent collapse. 

From Pilot Butte I cut across route 134 to stay north of Riverton and into the Wind River Canyon up to Thermopolis, where I had a Warmshowers host lined up.  The wind was blowing hard in my face heading north through the canyon, but I couldn't complain about the overcast 70 degree conditions.  I had heard normal temps are 90s and up! The scenery in the canyon makes for fine riding.   

Entering the canyon

Triple tunnel!  But they were short and not a single vehicle passed me while I was inside. 

Look at that shoulder! 

A moment of sunshine in the Wind River Canyon

Wyoming has signs denoting the age of various rock formations along many of their roads. Near the Bighorn Mountains I even saw a couple signs labeling pre-Cambrian rock formations, over 3 billion years old!   Here was one just before Thermopolis. 

Thermopolis Warmshowers hosts, Chris (pictured) and Jennifer, were fantastic hosts.  At dinner Chris asks if I need to do any work on my bike.  Turns out he really likes working on bikes.  Before I knew it he had my rear hub taken apart, bearings repacked, and ready to roll again. 

The hot springs at the state park in Thermopolis. I didn't stop for a swim but I bet that is a nice thing to do in the winter time.  Gets mighty cold during the winter I was told.

The next big stop was Buffalo, which is on the other side of the Bighorn Mountains, another previously unknown large mountain range.  Chris and Jennifer warned the climb was a big one.  I was surprised to see I would be climbing to nearly 10,000 feet again.  The total climb on the ride to Buffalo was about 6,600 feet and unfortunately the weather was not good, so I didn't see much of the mountains.  Another place I will have to go back to.  

Thankfully I had a place to stay indoors in Buffalo, courtesy of cycling friend, Melissa.  When she rode through the area a month earlier she met the Cotant family through some Rotary Club connection and passed their info along to me.  They were even nicer than she described.

The ride from Thermopolis to the Bighorns is nothing exciting.  But look at that shoulder!  Note rumble strip where it should be (on the left side).  

I found a nice place to camp along the Ten Sleep Creek at the base of the climb.  Stacked firewood, good swimming, and even a trash can, nestled in a protected canyon.  I woke up to a pouring rain around 4AM.  Another tent pole collapse led to a large pool of water in my tent.  Note to Tarptent: two piece tent stakes are bad.

The climb up the Bighorns to Powder River Pass.  That is about as good as the view got.  A light rain while I climbed up wasn't too bad.  The fog made for dangerous conditions so I was riding with my red flashing light for the first time since winter night riding.  Once I got to the top of the pass the wind was whipping and the rain began pouring down.  Temperature around 40F.  At least it wasn't snowing.   And there are two lodges, one on each side of the pass that I stopped at for treats and warm beverages. 

Of course the rain was the heaviest on the final steep descent into Buffalo.  As soon as I could see the city, the rain stopped.  This shot is looking back at the clouds consuming the mountains. 

The breakfast scene at the Cotant's house.  Melissa had been talking up their smoothies for weeks. Brian and Becky making breakfast and little Caylin looking for food.  That little girl ate almost as much as me!  For dinner Brian put a plate of steaks on the table that must have had 10lbs of meat on it.  A delicious mid-western meal.

Brian, Becky, Caylin, and Paxton in their Sunday's best heading to church before I rode off.  They are even nicer than they look!

From Buffalo I rode the unexciting stretch to Gillette via 70 miles of big shoulder low traffic interstate.  Not much in Gillette, but very nice hosts, courtesy of Melissa again, and a good nights sleep before my last WY stop, Devil's Tower National Monument, which is a bit out of the way, but is a cool place with an interesting Warmshowers host. 

Riding I-90 to Gillette through the shortgrass prairie.

Mary with the trailer they let cyclists sleep in in Gillette.  I got an awesome night's sleep in that trailer.  Steve, who I unfortunately didn't get to meet as he was working the night shift at the coal facility, uses the trailer for hunting and has it furnished with a couple beds.  It is dark, cool, and quiet.  Perfect for sleeping.  Mary and Steve's sons, Cole and Aaron happened to be home, so I got to hear some stories about Elk hunting, rattlesnakes, and living in Prague, CZ (Cole is living there teaching English). 

Coal trains lining the road just outside of Gillette on my way out of town.

The Devils Tower in northeast WY.  1200 feet of rock sticking up out of the hills.  A popular climbing destination.  I am told the climbing speed record is 11.5 min to the top.

Also a popular destination for touring cyclists, in part thanks to Frank, a climber and a cyclist.  Frank owns the Devils Tower Lodge and is also a Warmshowers host.  He let me camp on the property and join the guests for dinner and breakfast, delicious communal style meals.  As far as I know the pose has no significance, but Frank suggested we put our hands out, so I went along with it. 

Frank is a great piano player and he often entertains the guests. When I joked about playing a duet (Heart and Soul) he made me sit down and play with him before leaving.  Luckily he picked blues in C, which is one of a few things I sort of know how to play on the piano. 

Had I known Devils Tower was such a cool place I might have stayed another day, but I had lined up a Warmshowers host in Rapid City a couple nights later so felt I had to keep moving.  So on I went into the Black Hills of South Dakota, into Rapid City, through the Badlands, Pierre, and then did some big days of riding across eastern SD and western MN to Minneapolis.   I didn't have high expectations for South Dakota, but the Badlands were a pleasant surprised.  Still yet to be disappointed in a national park. 

I was feeling adventurous so I decided to I decided to take the back way via dirt forest roads into SD and the Black Hills.  That turned out to be an OK decision, except the afternoon was hot, dry, and hilly, of course.  A little over 60 miles of hilly riding, about half on steep washed out dirt roads, left me tired.

Once I got up into Spearfish Canyon via the Wagon Canyon Rd. ( I meant to take Grand Canyon Rd. the entire way, but missed a turn) I came across Timon Campground.  There was only another hour before sunset, but I was hoping to go further so I could get to Mt Rushmore before Rapid City the next day. I  started asking the one camper I saw, Cliff, some questions about places down the road I could camp.  Cliff knew the area well and said there was one place not too far down the road.  Then his wife, Debbie, poked her head out of the trailer and asked if I had eaten dinner yet, so of course I wasn't going anywhere. After a quick jump in a very cold creek I had a cold beer in my hand and was at the table in the trailer eating a hot meal, followed by a nice campfire, conversation, and breakfast in the morning (biscuits and gravy).  There is no shortage of incredibly nice people in WY or SD.  

The less beaten path through Spearfish Canyon 

Once I got back on the pavement through the Black Hills I noticed the Mickelson Trail, which I had hear about from several people, paralleling the road.  The only difference was the road went up and down, and the trail was mostly flat (railroad grade). So even though I don't like bike paths, especially dirt ones, I found myself riding down the trail. 

Turns out this 100+mile bike trail is quite good.  It is scenic and at least as direct as the road is.  It also has water stops, picnic tables, and bathrooms. 

And a few old railroad tunnels, which are fun to ride through.

Ellsworth Airforce Base is just outside Rapid City so I saw a number of unusual airplanes fly by.

Once I got to Hill City, SD, just north of Mt Rushmore the day was late and the rain was moving in, and unfortunately I didn't have time or energy to ride to Mt. Rushmore.  So I will be back to the Black Hills for Mt Rushmore and the Needles Highway.

Shortly after riding out of Hill City I got soaked, but had a good opportunity to air dry on the descent into Rapid City. I arrived wet, and tired of hills.  Mountains are somehow easier than hills.  At least they are more predictable.  I must have been tired as I forgot to get a picture of my WS hosts in Rapid City, who fed me a delicious Mexican meal and gave me comfortable dry place to sleep.  However, Fred and Sherry spend part of their year in Buffalo, NY so there is a chance I will see them when I ride through in a few weeks.    

East of Rapid City the terrain got flatter so I decided to pick up the mileage and see how far I could get. I decided to try to make it to Pierre via the Badlands loop in two days, about 5600 feet of climbing stretched out over 212 miles.  A little hillier than I expected, but the Badlands are an amazing place, and the beauty of the park gave me a little extra energy.  

The scene heading out of Rapid City along the frontage road on I90.  Not much to see! 

Once you enter the Badlands National Park that all changes.  The scenery is unique and spectacular. 

Riding along the loop road with grassland to the north and canyons to the south.

The loop road through the Badlands goes up and down.  Here is a nice downhill section.

I got a little wet here, and then a flat tire. But not a bad spot to have to change a flat. 

A little blue sky to show off the rock layers.

Heading out of the park.

100+ mile days and decreasing daylight means riding the whole day.  The reward is beautiful color and light around sunset.

I arrived in Kadoka, SD, which is a bit of a truck stop town, and found a campground.  Weirdest campground I have ever been.  Very run down and if it hadn't been for one other couple in a trailer, which offered me an ice cold Coors Light, I would have guessed the place was out of business.  I called the number by the "office" a couple times and finally got a hold of Wendall.  He said only $5 for a cyclist (a hot shower and WiFi is worth $5!) and someone would be around in the morning.  Nobody was around in the morning.   

Next day I did a ride just shy of 100 miles to get to Pierre.  Very hard ride as the last 30 miles heading north through the Ft Pierre National Grassland were hilly and into a very strong headwind.  I arrived around dark. 

Ellen and Tom, my wonderful Warmshowers hosts in Pierre.  They live right along the Missouri River.  (train bridge in the background).  I arrived just after sunset to delicious food, grilled meat (pork?) and fresh farmers market veggies.  So much better than the gas station food I had been eating along the interstate. 

I asked if I could take a rest day, and not only did I get a rest day, but I got invited to dinner with friends.  This turned out to be a Thanksgiving style feast of salmon and delicious veggies, along with cupcakes, wine and port.  And interesting company (a justice of the SD supreme court, and a bishop of the SD Episcopal Church).  Seems like wonderful community of people in Pierre.

Eastern SD got much flatter and I managed to do 410 miles of riding in 4 days into Minneapolis.  Mostly I had tailwinds, though the last two days were quite a bit of crosswinds and headwinds.  I had a place to stay and rest up in Minneapolis with Rich and Peter, who I met riding into Glacier NP, so I figured I would try to push the mileage and rest when I arrived.  

Heading east from Pierre was largely uneventful.  Lots of corn, wheat, soybeans, and sunflowers.  I did spend a night camping in the yard of an out of town WS host in Huron, where the SD state fair happened to be taking place.  So lots of people, and bit of traffic, around there.

The most exciting thing I saw east of Pierre, came right at the SD MN border, on Buffalo Ridge.  There is a massive wind farm here.  At one point I counted more than 100 turbines on the horizon. Now that I have cycled through oil fields, gasland, coal country, and their associated refineries as well as windfarms and solar power plants, I think we need to use more wind power.  Five reasons we should be getting half of our electricity from wind: 1. It is clean, surprisingly quiet, and hypnotically beautiful.  Great for cycling. 2. The roads, land and water below are not destroyed. 3. There is a whole lot of wind in the middle of the US.  4. Homegrown energy from the breadbasket of our country giving a little extra income and stability to farmers is a win win.   5. Jobs Jobs Jobs (that is a lot of construction, engineering, and manufacturing of turbines and transmission lines) 

I arrived into Ivanhoe, MN at a reasonable hour and found the town has camping spots, with showers, in the town park.  Awesome little place with good sandwiches at the gas station, the only place open.  I was delighted to eat some decent food.  I have been eating way to much sugar laden junk. 

MN country roads are not great for cycling.  Note rumble strip down center of the very small shoulder.

Then there are the MN roads with the gravel shoulder, so I was out in the road again.

In Gaylord, MN I camped in the city park.  I arrived around sunset and asked a guy I saw in the street if there was a place to camp.  He turned out to be the assistant fire chief and within 10 minutes he had the town police officer over to discuss.  They said I could camp there since I asked permission, but I should watch out for the vandals. No vandals, just heavy rain around 430AM.  

Riding out of Gaylord I thought I might get to see a tornado.  There were some severe thunderstorms moving through making for incredible clouds. 

More interesting clouds. 

Riding into darkness.  Luckily the storms were moving east as I rode north/northeast. 

Minneapolis is touted as one of the most bike friendly cities in the US, with an extensive bike path network.  Further outside the city I found the paths to be less than stellar. They were all dirt, many under construction, and one section closed entirely.  However, inside they city the bike path network is excellent.  They are paved and in high use areas have a separate lane dedicated for walkers and separate one way paths for bike traffic so faster cyclists can pass safely.     

Peter met me on the west side of the city to lead me in and give me a tour.  He is an architecture professor at University of MN, so another great tour guide!  Here I am on the Stone Arch Bridge, built in the late 1800s, making my second crossing of the Mississippi River.  The bridge is now a heavily used pedestrian way.  Minneapolis has preserved much of the old mill infrastructure and ruins along the river making for an interesting modern cityscape.

About 50 miles outside of Minneapolis's I noticed my brake rubbing on something. Turned out to be a crack in the rim of my wheel.  I had heard this would happen eventually, but I was starting to think my bike and wheels would just last forever.  With over 20,000 miles on this wheel I think I got my money's worth.  Luckily I was heading into a city, with a place to stay, and a nice bike shop, The Bicycle Chain, just down the street.  They ordered me a new wheel and let me use their tools to put it on.  I also ended up with a new cassette, pedals, chain, and break pads.  Like riding a new bike!